First and foremost, houseplants should be regularly checked for aphids. A harsh spray of water usually suffices to eradicate them as well as wash away their honeydew – an irresistibly sweet sticky substance which attracts other pests – without harming the plants themselves.
Aphids reproduce quickly, producing several generations in one season and devastating a plant with infestation. A serious outbreak may even weaken it altogether.
1. Spray the Infested Plants
Honeydew-covered leaves or stems may be the first sign of an aphid infestation, making early identification simple; vegetable gardeners can squish insects by hand when seen early enough; indoor and greenhouse plants require additional diligence as aphids may hide among leaf joints or underside of leaves, making detection harder.
Aphids possess piercing mouthparts that snip off soft new growth from many plant species, but are unlikely to kill healthy plants. Aphids also transmit viruses that distort plant growth and decrease seed yield. Some vegetables such as squash, melons, beans, potato radish beet bok choy chard are especially vulnerable to being attacked by aphid-transmitted diseases that can mottle yellow curl their leaves and ultimately spread disease throughout.
As with slugs and snails, the key to effectively controlling aphids lies in encouraging natural predators. Lady beetle adults and larvae, lacewing larvae and syrphid fly larvae can all provide effective control measures; regular inspection of your garden for these beneficial insects (along with other beneficial ones such as ladybugs) is especially essential if using herbicides or broad spectrum sprays that could damage both beneficial insects as well as harmful ones.
Aphids reproduce so rapidly that they can rapidly overwhelm a garden in no time, even if you don’t recognize an aphid problem until it is too late. Aphids are viviparous insects which reproduce without males present; when their populations increase hormones cause certain aphids to gain wings allowing them to escape their infested plants or establish new colonies elsewhere.
If you choose to spray, be wary of broad-spectrum insecticides which can damage the environment and interfere with predators that help keep aphid populations under control. They often destroy beneficial insects as well as pests they were intended to kill, while becoming resistant overtime. Instead, choose an insecticide targeted specifically against aphids such as Rotifera with Rhizobia or one of the Pyrethroids and aim it towards damp parts of foliage – remembering to follow any product labels and instructions carefully for maximum success!
2. Spray the Insects
Aphids, small sap-sucking insects found on virtually all plants, are an integral part of garden ecosystem and food sources for many types of birds, such as house sparrows. Unfortunately, their numbers can become problematic if left to thrive too much; weakening growth through curling leaves and branches or spreading virus between them to cause disease symptoms such as mottled or streaked foliage and weakening plant life overall.
Check aphid populations regularly during the growing season by inspecting plants or taking samples of soft new growth and holding it up to the light. A small cluster of wingless aphids clumped together is a sure sign of infestation; additionally look out for distortion, wilted leaves or yellow hued foliage along with mummified-appearing aphids caused by waste secretions from them.
Aphids can usually be controlled using natural enemies. Lady beetles (adults and larvae), lacewings, and syrphid fly larvae have proven particularly successful for protecting garden and landscape plants against these pesky insects. You can purchase specific predators online or from garden centers – just remember to apply them according to instructions!
If you don’t want to wait for insects to take care of the problem for you, mix insecticidal soaps or horticultural oils with water in a sprayer and apply directly onto aphids on your plants. Neem oil is another effective plant-based treatment which works well against soft-bodied insects like aphids.
Avoid using these sprays on plants suffering from water stress or damage, and always conduct a test for phytotoxicity by applying small doses over several days in a small section of the plant first. In particular, do not spray fruit trees during their dormant off-season periods with any type of treatment, as this could damage them irreparably.
Diatomaceous earth (DE), which is an all-natural mineral powder, can also help. Simply inspect all surfaces, corners, and crevices of your plant for signs of aphids and sprinkle or spray with DE. Reapply periodically so as to avoid further outbreaks.
3. Apply Insecticidal Soap
Insecticidal soaps work by disrupting membranes in their bodies and leading to desiccation or drying out, killing aphids effectively on most green-leafy plants including many vegetables; they’re less successful against roses and ornamental shrubs, however. When applied early morning or late afternoon in cooler temperatures for optimal effectiveness – making insecticidal spray more efficient while simultaneously protecting plants against damage; plus they don’t inhibit pollinators like bees and hoverflies from flying away as much.
Use your garden hose to spray forceful streams of water onto plants infested by aphids to control their population. The forceful stream will knock off the insects, while their weak legs prevent them from returning up the plant for feeding purposes – repeat as necessary until their population decreases significantly.
For severe infestations or plants unable to withstand repeated drenching with water from a hose, insecticidal soaps may be the better solution. Formulated specifically to provide faster and more effective control than ordinary household soap, insecticidal soap should still be used sparingly and with care.
Before using sprays, always read and follow all directions carefully. Because some types can be harmful to certain plants, especially young transplants and new growth, and when conditions are hot and humid.
Aphids reproduce through parthenogenesis, meaning wingless females can lay eggs without needing males as hosts. When spring comes around, this process produces nymphs which will then mature into adults within 20-40 days and feed off of host plant leaves and stems, eventually curdling them up and killing it completely. Meanwhile, their offspring continue to search for new hosts, so aphid infestations quickly spread from one plant to the rest of your garden.
4. Removing Infested Plants
Aphids can wreak havoc on garden plants, flowers and vegetables alike. Resembling tiny plant lice, these soft-bodied insects tend to gather together in clusters on stems, leaves and buds of healthy plants – often leaving behind honeydew secretions which attract ants as well as fungal diseases that weaken them over time. Furthermore, aphids transmit viruses which may prove fatal for certain types of plant life.
Minor aphid infestations may be alleviated with simple garden hose sprays to the affected plants, using firm streams of water to wash away both aphids and any accumulated honeydew. For optimal results, consider investing in an upgraded spray nozzle such as Green Mount Heavy-Duty Water Nozzle which we review in our guide of best hose nozzles.
If your aphid infestation is more widespread or you continue to see them after taking the first steps above, try creating your own low-toxicity insecticidal soap. Simply combine one teaspoon of mild liquid dish soap with one quart of water and spray this solution on any infested plants; it should desiccate their soft bodies without harming any of your plants.
An effective way to reduce aphid infestation is through companion planting techniques. Herbs such as dill, fennel, cilantro, chives and peppermint have pleasant scents which deter aphids and other pests – these herbs should be planted near or even right next to vegetables and flowers you want to protect.
Home gardeners may recognize aphids by their common name of greenfly; however, their more accurate name is greenfly. Aphids are unique insects in that they reproduce without male fertilization; instead they lay unfertilized eggs which hatch into female nymphs which mature quickly into adults without needing males for fertilization; this process is called aphidogenesis and it explains why some aphids seem to keep coming back; rather, new generations of them have emerged due to this aphidogenesis process; it explains why some aphids keep returning; new generations have arrived that have replaced those killed off before.
